Although it was hard to leave the relaxation of Salema and the coast of the Algarve, we were hungry for the history, food, and wine of the Alentejo region and headed north to Évora. This classic Portuguese walled city, the Historic Center a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a gorgeous, historical place to get a real feel for the olive, cork, and wine region of Alentejo.
We were staying two nights at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario https://adcevora.com/ near the city walls. We couldn’t have been more pleased with this choice. You know it’s going to be great when you are met at check in with a glass of wine! The staff of this hotel takes the term polyglot to a whole new level. We heard the desk clerk conversing with guests in no less than five languages over the course of our stay. Now that is customer service!
At check in, the staff helped us book a coveted reservation for that night at local restaurant Taberna Tipica Quarta Feira and once we settled into our rooms, we enjoyed some more wine on their courtyard patio and incredible salads from their onsite restaurant. 
With full bellies and a little buzz, we were ready to explore our new city. An easy five minute stroll beneath the arcades brought us to the center of town and in another five minutes we came to the first century Roman ruins of the Temple of Diana. 
This incredible site, on a hill overlooking the picturesque countryside was a place I could have sat in all day long. This was truly the culture and history we were seeking. After wandering around in awe for quite some time, we popped into the nearby Cathedral of Évora, dating from the 12th century, and checked out its tranquil cloister. 
Moving on, we spent some more time strolling around town, and then made our way to Taberna Tipica Quarta Feira for a dinner that was as much about flavor as about the experience. Having snagged the last available table for that evening, we really appreciated that fact when we watched group after group turned away at the door during our meal. This place is a must when in Évora, but reservations are essential. There is no menu—for a set price your group is served multiple courses of whatever they are serving that night. We also ordered the house wine, which was delicious and free flowing. Some of our dishes included an appetizer tray, salad, pork neck and pork cheeks, spinach, potatoes, and dessert. 
The mystery of what would come out next combined with the flavors and the homey feel of the place made it a dinner we won’t soon forget!
The next morning, we had a top notch breakfast at the hotel that was full of variety: made to order eggs, wonderful pastries, and an excellent assortment of local and organic products. Following this, we met in the lobby for a hotel-hosted walking tour of the aqueducts by their resident historian. This informative tour led us through the streets of the city, learning about the history of the aqueduct, and culminating at city hall to see the Roman baths. 
Post-tour we popped into a hole in the wall place for some wine and appetizers to recharge our batteries a little before our next dose of history and culture: a visit to the famous Chapel of Bones. 
I wasn’t sure what I would feel stepping into a chapel adorned with the bones of 5,000 skeletons, but it was truly more fascinating than macabre. These monks wanted us to think of our mortality and well, mission accomplished! Upon leaving, we also checked out the nearby Church of San Francisco. 
This ornate church with several chapels that were decoratively “over the top” also had an impressive collection of nativity scenes inside. So much time inside these two religious sites made us in need of some green time so we continued on with our stroll and found ourselves in the Jardim Publico, becoming one with nature on the flower-filled paths, accompanied by the resident peacocks. 
Considering all of the history we had learned that day, we felt like we had done what we came to do so we headed back to the hotel. On the way we passed through the Praça do Giraldo and saw this gentleman in full relaxation mode in the center of the square. 
I guess the calming effect of Évora is a real thing for everyone! Continuing on toward the hotel, we noticed a sign for Rota Dos Vinhos do Alentejo, a government-run informational center for the wines of Alentejo, complete with an available tasting of five different wines. We really were in the classroom of Portugal that day! All that learning was making us hungry so we had our last meal that evening at Adega do Alentejano, enjoying their famous tomato soup with poached egg and sausage (a meal in itself!) and the grilled sea bream in the lovely ambience of this quaint eatery. 
Although our time in Évora was brief–just two nights–it was very educational and gave us a better glimpse of life in Alentejo. Between the history, culture, food, and friendly people we all agreed that Évora is a must for those wanting to experience quintessential Portuguese life, which is truly a life of great people, food and wine, surrounded by centuries of history. Obrigada, Évora!
Trippin' with Señora 